While I opted for stainless steel, they also do mild steel as originally equipped, if you're going full concours. I'm going for braided hoses where movement is needed, which is only from the inner wing to the suspension struts at the front and then a 3rd to the rear axle, the rest is to be solid pipes. I can point you to at least 4 or 5 people that have used Copper and they have all had failures directly behind the flare, thats where it always breaks due to fatigue when flared.

You "can" make a decent flare on the kit in the original link, but IMVHO it's a lot more hit and miss - which aint what you want on brakes!! Rubber brake pipes are not very effective in handling wear and tear. Even steel brake pipe’s polish is affected by grime and road salt, which can puncture them. That’s where the Kunifer brake pipe stands out. It offers a much longer life span and also offers significant protection against wear and tear. 4-Affordable

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Bienvenue Willkommen Bienvenido Benvenuto Welkom أهلًا وسهلًا Witamy Velkommen Прошу Velkominn Bem-vindo Καλώς ήρθες Välkommen ようこそTervetuloa Добре дошъл Bun venit 환영 Ive been using a lot of cu-ni and copper to make oil feed lines lately cu-ni seems to work harden noticeably as you bend it starts off bending like copper and by the end of the bend it feels like steel.

Kunifer brake pipes are not only superior quality brake pipes but are also affordable because of the value they provide. It may seem expensive, but in the long term, it provides greater value than rubber and steel brake pipes. If you want affordable, you should go with Kunifer brake pipes without any hesitation.

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But, if you're thinking of doing more maintenance on other vehicles, then a better flaring kit might be required - certainly I have a sykes pikavant flaring tool which I'd highly recommend - a search on here should find you other flaring tools which folk recommend. Each brake line to rear could not be removed in one piece, I worked out two cut points where needed. With patience they where removed to enable them to be used as templates for making new lines. I taught myself pipe making. Practice makes perfect. Buy a range of end fittings, and through connectors. Also, practice double flares, and bubble flares... Using copper tube for brake pipes is absolutely fine for the first fitting. However if you ever need to remove a pipe, to change a hose or a calliper, for example the steel nuts usually end up twisting the copper pipe as you undo the union so you will need to replace the pipe all over again. You don't get this problem too much with Kunifer pipe but it can happen. I've removed copper pipes off cars which I'd only fitted it a couple of years previously and aren't wasn't happy about reusing as they SEEMED to have aged or however you describe it.

Searching online I’m thinking that buying a length of replacement brake pipe and the tools to bend/fit it is probably the best/cheapest option but can anyone recommend a decent pipe/supplier and also is this a sensible DIY option? We typically aim to manufacturer and deliver your complete brake pipe set to your door within 2 working days to the UK

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As I say I still use both on my own vehicles so cann't say I'm negative against copper - or pro Kunifer.

need to diy a couple of brake pipes that are tatty , is kunifer the prefered choice for home users? Welcome to the Forum of the UK's National Street Rod Association - we hope you'll find it interesting and useful. That kit doesn't look the greatest quality. You want proper individual split dies rather than that rather ropey looking wing nut and bar affair.Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place. of the things on my “to do” list before the next MOT is to replace the rear brake pipes, one of which is corroded and has been covered (flagged on the last 2 MOTs) and has been in that state since I bought it. I restored a Triumph Herald 19 years ago and fitted your pipes and silicone fluid, I have not needed to touch them at all in all this time, I must say excellent products. Once again thank you for your help." Regards, Craig You need a good pipecutter and particularly a good solid flaring tool. Mine is an old Sykes Picavant. Weighs plenty but does a good job.