I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and Morris Minor box sections rot inside . You need a penetrating type of preservative. Waxoyl is no good.. I have had rusting under waxoyl .. even on external seam welds.. This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ? So why am I sharing this, well just to advise caution if you think that a chassis is in good condition because it has been waxoyled, in my case this was definitely not so… all it served to do was mask the rust gremlins that are our very worst enemy.

If you need to keep your car in good condition over a long period this product will save you some serious cash, clean off surface rust and prime and paint chassis etc then spray with wax oil, it won’t rust no more and then no MOT issues or expensive welding, great for hard to get to box metal sections, It also pinged the fuse for the lighting circuit, getting myself out of the underneath of the landy proved friutfull, in that I knew all the places that waxoil had “leaked”. After looking it would seem a combinaton of dinitrol 3125 followed by a protective coat of 4941 is the way to go. Any one here tried them?. tin worm still keeps on gnawing away at the metal underneath.The covering of waxoyl takes away to main accelerators I would guess - damp air and salt.... by yeah I agree, cant see it being 100% effective at isolating the metal from nature.I concur. I just cant see how waxoil would keep things airtight. We haven’t just added random products we’ve hand selected what we would recommend to use with Hammerite Waxoyl Clear - Car Rust Proofing including our most suitable tools for application and preparation.

I’ve decided to use POR15, based on lots of advice on here. I bought some last year before I had the gunge put on, but didn’t use it, seemed too much like hard work. So I’m writing this whilst having a cup of coffee, after having used it today. I followed the instructions to the letter, POR Degreaser first, followed by Etch primer, and finally the first thin coat of POR 15… looks good so far and the next coat goes on in a couple of hours. Any covering that doesn't seal totally can just end up as a water trap. A lot of the treatments result in varying outcomes down to the care taken in applying them. Ease of application & preparation required are the main differentiators I suppose. Thhhhuuuumpppppppp !…grwat big snotty big dollop spewed out over the kitchen worksurface... no probs I thought, ...I’ll sort that out when I’ve finished, as I might make "a little bit more mess yet".... glad she's not in.

Applying this stuff is a Summer job. Get the car clean underneath and apply during a dry spell with the car in the sun and when everything warm - including the fluid. hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktopExtended spray - Should be used when the standard nozzle just won't reach and when you need to spray a panel that's above you. Can also be used to spray around corners and over parts like exhausts and axles. Given the unpleasent nature of the job, I wouldn't consider using anything other than what I judge to be the best materials for the job.