I have the usual 5mm(?) propelling type fibreglass pencils and they can be a pain. I just make sure that I'm not using them directly over my lap! Done a bit more work on the brake van by taking some more powder off using the fibreglass pen and adding some powders to the underframe. I don't think it looks too bad on the layout. I've got some more techniques I want to try so I might do that on the other side and I bought another unfitted brake van to try and get the look I really wanted. Over the years, I've used this stuff for a number of purposes - and have generally found the medium to be the most useful of the lot - followed by fine (which I've sometimes used for cleaning circuit boards).

Fibreglass Scratch Pen Brush Cleaner Remove Rust Dirt Fibreglass Scratch Pen Brush Cleaner Remove Rust Dirt

Thanks for the comment Doilum, I'm not sure about the livery of the wagon, it's quite an old Bachmann product and could be completely fictitious, there might be someone on here who knows though. Unlikely due to the length. 18 feet planks are hard to come by and therefore expensive. Not sure if they were used when new. Most probably created by creating a scarfe joint. I've normally used Bakers flux and more recently Carrs yellow, but bought some Gauge 0 'safety flux' last year which, applied with a brush, doesn't seem to wet the parts I want to tin . It stays in little blobs despite me burnishing the brass with a fine abrasive or fibreglass pen.

If I can make a suggestion. Less powder as it goes a long way. As you already discovered, the varnish really is applied as a 'dusting', a mist if you like. Saying all this, I'd agree with what a number of people have already said in this thread - I prefer to use only the solder I need (and no more) in the first place. If there is excess solder, my preference would be to cut it away - using electronics "edge cutters", an old chisel or a scraper - before finally smoothing the surface using a file, an emery board or Garryflex. I will soon be starting my first etched wagon kit. The problem is I am confused about which flux to use, the more I read the more confusing I get. All these different coloured fluxes. For years I have been using Fluxite paste but I am now thinking liquid flux will give better penetration due to capillary action. Here you go Steve. I apply Humbrol powders then once happy, I seal them with a LIGHT pass of Humbrol Matt acrylic varnish. Too much and it be too wet. This will lose the variations in colour.

D02266 Duratool, Pencil, Fibreglass, Propelling | Farnell UK D02266 Duratool, Pencil, Fibreglass, Propelling | Farnell UK

so you can remove those unsightly solder stains seen on so many assembled kits.Far better is to learn to use less solder in the first placeThe best traditional fluid flux is Bakers, which is acid, balanced with a a buffer, and zinc in solution. It cleans aggressively the surface once hot, and promotes the spread of the solder. It works well on steel parts, but must be washed of at once, as it starts oxides on the surfaces if left.

Fibreglass Pen Fibre Pen Pencil Abrasive Cleaning With 5 Fibreglass Pen Fibre Pen Pencil Abrasive Cleaning With 5

The whole approach is to get the solder to take to the base metal, and any oxide on the metal stops the process, all the flux does is clean with acid whilst the surface is hot, and then keeps air off it till the metal bonds. One question, would the top 2 planks of the wagon belong continuous planks and replaced as one plank?I use Carr's yellow as it doesn't rust one's tools and doesn't leave green deposits on brass. It may have disadvantages that I'm not aware of, but I've used it for 5 years and it gets things built.... I used to use a fibre glass tip cleaning tool with a cloth wrapping, this is more convenient and accessible to use and the results are as good, great product.

Modelcraft Glass Fibre Pencil | Hobbycraft

I've rarely found much use for the other grades - but I should add that I've never really done much with whitemetal (so I don't know what grade would be needed for this). But it's getting expensive, and perhaps the last poster is on to something... I'm certainly inclined to give it a try. You are right mind, sometimes its better to leave it for a bit. I've done the same with a couple of mine. The pencils are quite good , being a " Model Engineer " of many years standing . ( Working model steam engines ) I use quite a lot of these pencils from time to time. The main trouble that I find is that they are not quite hard enough , and each re fill doesn't last very long at all. perhaps ? there could be some improvement on that " score " ??? Garryflex is colour coded, according to grade. There is a list printed on the side of the card wrapper - which may, or may not, be readable in the photo earlier in this thread:It is the nature of the stuff, no wetting agent, simpler acids do this. You can try adding a tiny amount of detergent or some alcohol to it, The burnishing from the fibre brush can be dealt with a final light application of matt varnish once you've removed the powder. Of course you all know what is going to happen tonight; just after rubbing down a messy bit of soldering an odd itching feeling will appear in my fingertips... Masking tape is also very good at removing the aforementioned splinters from fingers. Press it along the skin in the direction of the splinter and pull out in the same direction. But all fluxes must be washed away at once anyway, leave and it asks for trouble later on. the exception is the rosin flux used in the cored solder, it is safe to leave as it turns inert at the temperature the iron reaches. Electronic joints use this type, and leave the residues in place.