Finally, that aforementioned wide exposure latitude is a good safety net should the light really be too bright or dim, and the film has good enough dynamic range to render light and dark areas well in the same shot, as you can see with the fish market and pigs shots below. I thought that the reason for this might be a failed development process ( I process my own C-41 ). Then I shot and developed the second roll and got the same results. A slight pink / magenta cast. I was extra careful with my development. I also developed another roll after this to see if the chemicals are starting to wear off. Does not look like it - next roll ( Kodak Ektar ) developed fine with no casts. Negative density level unified with other PRO series films for maximum printing uniformity and efficiency. Superb skin-tone and hue reproduction with continuously smooth gradation from the highlights to the shadows without any washout.

Outstanding tolerance to exposure and density compensation during processing, within -1/2 stop to +2 stops, resulting in minimal variations color balance and gradation. If you appreciate things for what they are and use them for what they were made for, I put forward that C200 is, just like all of those other films just mentioned, special in its own way. The grain was always low across both rolls I shot, as you’d expect from an ISO 200 film. Overall, I have to say the image quality and qualities were everything I could ask for and more from a budget, general use, average film.And while C200 might be average in the film world, consider that it’s a product long-made by one of the very best film manufacturers in the actual world. Compared to most other things on this planet, it does a very good job of reproducing your images. Instead of degrading it for not being a special colour negative film like a Kodak Ektar 100 or a Portra 400, I like to recognise it for what it is. A reliable general use film that gives you exactly what you expect, with whatever working camera you have, in almost all good light situations, and at low cost.

This is a consumer film rather than professional film. It’s meant to perform acceptably after having sat on a store shelf for who knows how long. I’ve shot rolls of this stuff that I left at room temperature for years and got good results. If you were to look at the outdated box design, the budget price, the ubiquitous availability and the results it gives, it would be easy to conclude that Fujicolor C200 – or Fujicolor 200 as it’s known in some markets – is nothing special. Fujicolor C200 is a 5500°k daylight balanced, consumer-grade ISO 200 colour negative film that’s available in 35mm format only. In some territories, it may be available as plain old Fujicolor 200, without the C. Smooth gradation reproduction with superb depth, thanks to bias-free, brilliant highlights and excellent highlight-to-shadow gradation linearity.C200 is a C-41 color negative film. Fuji says that it's designed for "flexibility and ease of use". And that part is true. Consumer market films are more forgiving so you can over and under expose a decent amount and still get usable results. On the other hand - the colors might not be as nice and grain can be more noticeable. As I continue to shoot film and build up experience, I’m finding the more freely I shoot, the more likely it is I’ll have something in the results that I really like. Extremely satisfying color depiction, providing the most brilliant primaries without sacrificing the delicate pastels, for wide-ranging application. Minimum variation in color and gradation during push/pull processing over a range from -1/2 to +1 stop, providing an expanded range of phototaking opportunities, as well as facilitating fine adjustments in exposure and density during processing and allowing an increase in speed of up to +2 stops (equal to E.I.400), depending on the scene. At this point I'm not sure if the cast is a normal C200 thing or not. Maybe the film didn't play well with my development technique. Other films haven't reported issues with it though. Maybe it's a normal C200 look. The cast appears stronger on more over-exposed shots so it could be something to do with that. It's not too strong and you can also fix it in post. Something to be aware of.

Update: some of you guys told me that these days Fuji 200 is just rebanded Kodak Gold 200, so make sure not to overpay as I did here. Leica M6 | MS-Optics 50mm 1.3 Slim | f/2.0 | Fuji 200 Leica M6 | MS-Optics 50mm 1.3 Slim | f/2.0 | Fuji 200 Leica M6 | MS-Optics 50mm 1.3 Slim | f/2.0 | Fuji 200 Leica M6 | MS-Optics 35mm 1.4 Apoqualia | f/2.0 | Fuji 200 Leica M6 | MS-Optics 35mm 1.4 Apoqualia | f/2.0 | Fuji 200 Leica M6 | MS-Optics 35mm 1.4 Apoqualia | f/2.0 | Fuji 200 Further readingFujicolor C200 is Fujicolor 200 though, so you can take this as a review of both. For the remainder of it, I’ll be using the name C200 only, as that’s what I’ve shot. Depending on where you live and buy your film, you may or may not recognise Fujicolor C200’s box design. But if you’ve ever shot the C-less Fujicolor 200, you’ll probably recognise the canister. That’s because they’re the same. Same canister, same film. Professional-quality, medium-speed, daylight-type, color reversal film with ultrafine grain (RMS *2 : 8) and ultrahigh color saturation through the incorporation of new-generation cyan, magenta and yellow couplers.Suited especially to scenery and nature photography as well as other subjects that require precisely modulated vibrant color reproduction and high image quality.Provides color image stability equal to that of RVP 100F and can be push-processed up to +1 stop with excellent results and little photographic variation.

While C200 does continue this trend, don’t be fooled into thinking it’ll present your sunny-at-the-time holiday memories as some gloomy alternate reality. What I got from my couple of rolls was certainly still vivid enough. Forget the iPhone’s Portrait mode, Fujifilm C200 is what you need to capture amazing portraits 😅 Specification Format: Fujifilm is pleased to continue the legacy of analog photography and film so all generations can experience the joy of photography.’ Some of the things that make Fujicolor C200 an average film are the very same things that make it a good choice for your street photography. Let's look at the Fuji claims. Firstly the "enhanced skin tones". I'm not sure about the "enhanced" part but skin looks natural and pleasing. At least caucasian skin as that's all I had on offer. When over-exposing, the skin starts to get more pink and unnatural. I would recommend keeping it exposed close to box speed of ISO200 to keep skin looking like skin. Not Pinky Pie from My Little Pony.

Specification

Minimum color balance variation over a range from -1/2 to +1 stop to enable wider photo opportunities. Also allows fine adjustments of exposure and density to be easily done during processing. It also means, if you have experience developing other colour negative films, you’ll be able to do this one yourself too. You can find the datasheet right here. Fujicolor 200 often renders white skin tones a little ruddier than real life, but not so much as to be unrealistic. I’ve never shot a person of color with this film, so unfortunately I can’t comment on how it handles nonwhite skin tones. Pentax ME, 35mm f/2.8 SMC Pentax-A Olympus Stylus Epic Zoom 80 Rollei 35B Nikon N60, 28-80 mm f/3.3-5.6 AF Nikkor Konica C35 Automatic It has a very wide exposure latitude so that even the simplest old camera will return usable images. I’ve shot it successfully at EI 100, 200, and 400 with no loss of quality that I could discern. I’ve seen others shoot it at EI 800 and get acceptable results.