In our experience, Midea makes solid air conditioners that are good value, but they don't always feel as premium as their more expensive cousins. The 3 bedrooms, bathrooms and hall can be closed off by a door. The 23×12 master is at the end of an approx 75sq ft hall, I definitely want a unit in this room. Each bedroom to either side of the hall measures 13×13. Will a solo mini split unit in the center master cool the 2 side bedrooms at all? A 12k 22 SEER or a 18k 20 SEER is too big for that room alone unless the unit will actually reach to include cooling the 2 side bedrooms. An alternative option is the 27k 22 SEER 3 zone unit, with a 9k handler for each bedroom, likewise seems more than suggested for the per room sizes but is the lowest btu multi 3 zone unit. But it is true the home has no insulation and long thin glassed windows, perhaps higher btu are needed. What would you suggest? The app is a great feature that allows you to control the Comfort 6000 remotely, setting the temperature wherever you are and getting a notification when the AC has done its job. Note: Evaporative coolers and mini personal air coolers do not produce a cooling effect that can be expressed in BTU. They use water evaporation instead of the refrigerant-based system to provide a cooling effect. Throw in the same smart features as the smaller model, and you have a fully featured PAC that can keep you chilled out in the middle of a scorching day. Just be aware that it’s a chunky unit and, at 32kg, a bit too heavy to be lugged around the house.

Free unlimited phone support with a UK Dedicated claims line need a repair. We have a dedicated claims line and are here to help. Protect your Air Conditioner against the cost and hassle of unexpected failure and give yourself some added peace of mind with one of our great value extended warranties! Here’s what I’m thinking now. Get two air conditioners. A less powerful one just for the bedroom, a more powerful one to handle the two hottest rooms (living room and kitchen) together. Hello, I’m looking for a solution for our new house with casement windows. Ultimately, I know a mini-split system will be best, but it’s out of our budget right now. So, we’re looking at getting several portable units with plexiglass window covers (with cutouts for the exhaust). The master bedroom is on the 2nd floor, 425 sf, including the bathroom. Mostly 8′ ceilings with one peaked area up to 12′. I’m assuming a 12,000 or 13,000 BTU unit. Another bedroom is 160 sf, so I’m assuming an 8,000 BTU unit. We probably won’t run this one unless we have guests. Now here’s the fun part- an open concept area with the living room, dining room, kitchen, plus the hall, laundry room, a half bath, and a full bath. That area is about 900 or 1000 sf, with many windows and a cathedral ceiling in the living room up to 25 feet or more. I’m thinking 3 units- one in the living room, one in the laundry room doorway in the hall (aimed at the kitchen), and one on the upstairs landing above the living room. But I don’t know what size I’ll need for those 3 units. Any advice? Anything we need to be aware of for electrical systems? Or single vs dual hose units? We’re in the northeast US. Thanks for your help! Reply As recommended by The U.S. Department of Energy, the ballpark figure is 20 BTU per sq ft. That is a very good estimate already.In a 900 sq ft workshop, this would mean you need 900×35 = 31,500 BTU. I would like to say that you don’t really need 35 BTU per sq ft but this is Florida. Hot summers. Well, if we were talking 10,000 BTU or so, portable AC would be an OK choice (you could put the exhaust hose out of one of those small windows). Given it’s 31,500 BTU, your go-to AC type is a mini split. The configuration problem I anticipate with using a single unit for the whole apartment is that the air flow from bedroom to living room involves passing through a narrow doorway and make a dog-leg turn. I look on fans as efficiency boosters, not as mandatory links in the cooling chain, if you see what I mean. Nor do I want to end up blasting the AC in one room but still getting an inferior result in the other. I have a complicated air conditioning situation. I live in southwest Missouri, with a hot, humid climate in the summer. The house, which I grew up in, is a one-and-a-half-story 1920s Craftsman-style house (not true Craftsman), with central air. Like my father, I keep the door at the bottom of the stairs closed to save on utilities. The upstairs consists of two bedrooms, which are divided by a hallway, which gives onto a stairwell from the gabled landing. The ceilings measure 7’3/4″ at their highest (in the two bedrooms, there are sloping ceilings on either side). The bedroom doors face each other, and the two windows in the south bedroom more or less face the single window in the north one. Overall, we were very satisfied with how well the De'Longhi Pinguino was able to cool a large space, and we found it to be unobtrusive and quiet. Thanks to its auto-evaporative functionality, the air conditioner recycles condensation water to cool itself. There’s rarely a need to drain it unless you live in an extremely humid area.

Before you get a portable unit, there are some more sustainable options to cool your home that you can try beforehand, such as using an electric fan or closing curtains. You can start with a smaller cheaper portable dehumidifier. If that dehumidifier, working with the 5 ton AC unit, can lower the humidity levels below 50%, your AC will be able to generate more airflow and provide relatively more cooling since it doesn’t have to struggle against high humidity levels. If a portable dehumidifier is too small, a ducted dehumidifier is a solution.Hello Robert, thank you for very much your comment (it means a lot) and sorry for the comment error, we’re trying to fix it. That’s a very detailed description containing a lot of important factors. Let’s simply it: average 384 sq ft room with an 8 ft ceiling would require 384 sq ft * 20 BTU per sq ft = 7,680 BTU. However, your ceiling is, on average, 15 1/4 ft high. That means that you have 91% more air in your square footage than a room with an average 8 ft ceiling height; we get to 14,640 BTU.

If left in landfill, they can release the refrigerant into the environment. Some models contain HFCs, which are potent greenhouse gases. Also known as fixed air conditioners, these are comprised of two parts: a condensing unit (mounted outside) and an evaporator (mounted inside). Both parts need to be connected, so installation is far more complex compared with a portable model. Appearance-wise, the device is compact, measuring just 20 x 20 x 25cm and we love that the unit sat neatly on our desk without being too much of an eyesore, while the LED light is a lovely touch and there are a selection of colours to choose between.If you want to properly cool down a 300 square foot area (or room), you need a 6,000 BTU air conditioner. Obviously, the problem arises when you have a tiny 12×12 room, for example. According to the US Department of Energy directive, an air conditioner’s most appropriate size would be 2,880 BTU unit. The best you can do here is to buy a small 5,000 BTU window or a small 8,000 BTU portable AC unit (more about the smallest AC units here).

You’d be hard-pressed to market most air conditioners as a hipster lifestyle accessory, but that’s how America’s EcoFlow pitch the Wave 2. Boasting Lamborghini-style spoilers and slats, it’s a handsome and genuinely portable model that weighs about the same as a piece of carry-on luggage.

The model we tested came with a window installation kit, which means you'd get less hot air entering from the open window you're using for your AC's extractor hose. We've tested portable air conditioners from a range of popular brands, including AEG, Argos own-brand Challenge, DeLonghi and ElectriQ. Protect yourAir Conditioneragainst the cost and hassle of unexpected failure and give yourself some added peace of mind with one of our great value extended warranties!