Any old glue will do" is not really a good philosophy for gluing cardboard. Here are some tips for gluing with different types of glue: If you want to join your cardboard together without using any kind of hardware, folded tab joints are very easy to do just by making a few cuts in your cardboard pieces and then folding the pieces to create tabs. When choosing the thread, consider the density of the timber. It’s best to use fine threads for hard timber and coarse threads for soft timber.

This method is best for open frames, where two sides need to be spaced apart but still aligned and stable. Simply cut rectangular standoffs from cardboard, and glue them at evenly spaced intervals on each side. Too thin? Too flimsy? Bends in all the wrong places? We can fix that! Here are some ways to reinforce cardboard to expand it's usefulness (these are my own personal names for the methods, by the way): Slot joints work by cutting matching slots into two different pieces of cardboard. These pieces will then slide into each other, forming the joint. Tab and Slot joints are when you use tabs and slots together to join two pieces of cardboard together. Instead of inserting two slots to line up with each other, you simply cut out tabs to fit into the slots.Drywall screws are used to attach plasterboard to light steel, wooden studs, or metal partitions. They’re typically lighter and have deeper threads than other types, enabling them to grip plasterboard securely and a sharp point so pre-drilling isn’t required. Types of screw heads for drywall screws include bugle, wafer, and countersunk. A bugle head sits flush with the plasterboard’s surface, a wafer head sits above the surface, and a countersunk head sits below the surface. Good for use when gluing cardboard to paper sheets or foil. Infuriating because it dries too fast on paper and too slow on foil, this glue is rarely used in my workshop, so I don't generally keep it on hand. Different paints work differently, and the real differences you want to watch out for are between Matte and Gloss paints. I usually mix the two so that I get a semi-gloss, and this is fine applied directly to the cardboard (for a more rustic or weathered feel/look) or with a base coat (for a newer look).

Grub screws: work using a pinning action that pushes two surfaces against each other, negating the need for a nut. They are often used in applications requiring a small, unobtrusive screw. Again, these aren’t exceptionally strong – I would definitely NOT use these for furniture or anything of that sort. However, they are definitely a great thing to have in your creative toolbox, especially if you have students or kids who are interested in building things.

Hot Melt Glue

It can be helpful to establish a theme for the class to build creations within to help those students who might struggle to come up with an idea of what to build. General ideas like Jurassic Park in cardboard, Star Wars, Hogwarts, etc. allow for free iteration within the theme. Give students at least 30 minutes of building time, then regroup to share their designs, ideas, and challenges. Have students disassemble their creations at the end of the class period to reuse the materials, or better yet create a display to share with the rest of the school! You can’t use metal screws with cardboard, but these SCRU fasteners work just like screws would when you are connecting pieces of cardboard together. Consider what material the plasterboard will be attached to, as different screws are suitable for different materials. For example, there are drywall to heavy steel screws, drywall to light steel screws, and drywall to wood screws. Coach screws: these are driven into materials using a spanner through a square or hexagonal head. They provide robust and heavy-duty fixing. As always, these are the projects of Dangerously Explosive, his lifelong mission, "to boldly build what you want to build, and more!"

Flange tab joints are what you’ll definitely want to use when you are trying to connect cardboard tubes such as tissue paper rolls to a flat piece of cardboard. Coarse Thread Design: The coarse thread of chipboard screws allows for a stronger hold and increased resistance to pull-out forces. This design ensures that your fastened materials remain securely in place, providing long-lasting durability.This is also a great opportunity to discuss how the "grain" of cardboard is similar to that of wood - the way it is constructed makes it easier to "cut with the grain" along the corrugated channels, rather than "across the grain" perpendicular to the corrugation. I think this is neat because cardboard is, after all, wood! You might be able to use tape with some success, but I am not good with tape and so I avoid it when I can. There ARE some types when you might want to use duct tape however and that’s when you are prototyping + designing something out of wood. Entering speech mode, clears throat, and begins in a deep, clear voice* (Just read the bold if you don't like speeches.) Again, these types of joints as-is are NOT intended to hold or carry any significant amount of weight. To add additional strength and stability to the piece, you will want to cut out circle of cardboard to glue on top of the flange tabs.

Those listed above are the most popular types, but there are other more specialist and less popular screw types available, such as: Timber screws are specially designed for use on timber. They have an aggressive, coarse thread that grips wood securely into place. They come in various gauges, head and drive types, and sizes, meaning there is a choice of screw for any task. When choosing masonry screws, consider the load it will bear, as different types are suitable for medium or heavy-duty loads. Once you have those tabs cut and folded over to form the flange, it’s as simple as applying some glue.Hot glue is also one of those things you wouldn’t want to let kids under the age of 13 use, as a glue gun gets VERY hot. Even older kids and teens should be supervised while using got glue with an adult in the same room. I just made a few of these boxes/trays -- at these dimensions they end up being 6 x 3 x 1 1/4. Works pretty well, although they're nowhere near as neat as the ones in the photos where the OP used inside-corner tape... >;-) To make a tab and slot joint, in one piece of cardboard cut away the edges so that you form a tab. On the other piece of cardboard, you’ll want to make a slot using your cardboard cutter. This is a great way to add additional elements to whatever you are building – especially when making cardboard sculptures and models.