That brake pipe is the longest on the car and to run a new one in the same location I would have had to drop the fuel tank. That said, bleeding brakes is simpler and quicker if all four wheels are off the ground and accessible, so for the reasons given in the recommendations section of this guide, if possible I'd always get the car completely off the ground anyway.

You can leave brake systems sealed like this for very long periods without them dripping and without having to worry about dirt or water getting into the system. The brake pipes on junction box are labeled (HR, VR, HL, VL) see the photo at the start of this section for how these relate to the brake pipes.The passenger side was OK, Drivers side unfortunately went to undo the brake pipe nut on the chassis end of the flexi and it appears to have been rusted to the pipe so the pipe kinked. Familiarise yourself with the route of the brake pipe you are going to replace (see photo to the left). Looking around it seems that a tool such as this would enable me to replace a small part of the existing pipe. Most of the line is covered by various plastic covers and still looks like new, it is damaged where it drops down and is exposed near the rear axle. These fitments are notorious for welding themselves together - this is where the penetrating oil (WD40 or similar) and flare spanners come in.

Now working under the car at the rear you should be able to pull the pipe through and feed it up over the subframe, following the path of the original brake line and threading it around obstacles until it pops out under the rear wheel arch. These countries use kunifer instead, which is a copper alloy and looks very similar (so similar in fact that some people still refer to it as just "copper brake pipe"! Next if you are working on the rear pipes, you need to get under the car and remove the rear section of the underguard tray beneath the engine/transmission (see photo to left).g. some BMW M3 vehicles), please check the specification and select the correct Brake Disc(s) and Quantity. As well as customising your brakes to your own specification, there are essential repairs and replacements that need to be made every so often for safety reasons. However, often you don't get this lucky, and be aware that your brake pipe may snap at the fitting so make sure there is a basin under it to catch any stray drips of brake fluid and some rags .

I use a Machine Mart branded version and although they are fairly crude, I can make perfect flares in 3/16" with only rare distortion. You may as well do all those extra servicing jobs at the same time, as this will stop you having to pull the system apart at a later date and bleed it again. The metric Din looks like a bubble, but the imperial SAE looks like a cocktail glass (see photo to left). Premium Material] Brake tube kit is made of high-quality flexible brass, durable, convenient, and won't rust. If you only need to replace a front brake line then you can get away with just jacking up the front of the car and making the front two wheels accessible.Am I right in thinking the caplier will accept either, as long as the nut is the right type for the flare? do I have the tools - not yet, I find its always better to spend the money on the tool to do the job instead of giving it someone else to do the job for you. Start at the front of the car above the engine and slowly unwind and thread the brake pipe down through the engine bay fitment end first (not taped up end first! If you do this make sure you use caliper paint and only paint the outside surfaces, never the rubber seals, pistons or where the brake pads slide in and out. As you pull the brake pipe over the subframe, the other end of the brake pipe can be pushed out between the front wheels (that is why you positioned it there).

I doubt very much you will have, or have access to, any flaring tool that will flare steel on the car, let alone know properly how to join pipes (joiners are essential, not just a male/female joint) and would probably not recognise a good flared pipe from a bad 1. The "correct" way of lubricating brake fitments is with brake fluid (never anything else because of contamination). Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page.There wasn't loads of pipe left showing to work with but as this is so small it makes life really easy. I have classic cars that have been running on unsupported (by modern standards) "pure" copper brake pipes for more than 30 years and I have never had even one pipe crack (and yes, I used to race one of them). Please ensure you have read the information in the above sections and that you have the correct tools available.