Multiple wires can be connected through the tap. The small needle punctures the wire to be tapped, then the end cap screws on to make the final connection. Using Posi-Tap Connectors And they’re removable, adjustable and reusable, so you can instantly add or remove more wires for accessories like horns, lights, radios and other gear with little effort. I connected up each of the connectors as shown below. I didn't bother crimping a #18 wire into the space part of the unpluggable tap on the T-tap, that crimp connection isn't the focus of this test.

The T-tap was pretty easy to crimp on, but didn't leave me with a good feeling about the connection - note the ends of the wire angled up from the force of the metal piece going down through the wire. It has a slim straight barrel design, rather than the tapered body found on the 16-18, making it easier to fit in the tight confines of a motorcycle.That’s all there is to it — no crimping (which doesn’t work anyway!), no soldering. The “needle” that’s just visible in the photo at left will pierce the hot wire’s sheath to provide power. The Posi-Tap can hold up to four 18-guage, three 16-guage, two 14-guage or one 12-guage wire.

The screw in end for the tap. The end is a large diameter hole, then it tapers in a bit to the smaller diameter hole that goes all the way through.While there is no guarantee, they have been designed to meet the needs of the marine industry and function while fully submerged. The two compression seals keep the water out, while the thread seal keeps the wires safe. They meet and exceed the US requirement SAE/USCAR-2 5.6.5 submersion test. However, if you don't fit them properly then this will impact their ability to repel water. I also decided to retry the scotchlok 560 to see if being super careful removing the insulation had any less breakage. The Posi-Tap can hold up to four 18-guage, three 16-guage, two 14-guage or one 12-guage wire. The Posi-Tap is made of Nylon 66, and the internal conductor material is tin plated brass. The connector is about 37.5mm (1.48″) long, and 13mm (.50″) in diameter. The Posi-Tap can fit just about anywhere on a motorcycle where you need to tap into a hot wire to power lighting, auxiliary switches, heated clothing leads or more. The main piece tap end has a metal cone. It's a little hard to tell from the photo, but the metal is not just shiny spot in the center. The shiny spot is just the tip of the metal cone - the metal cone tapers out to almost fill the whole diameter of the threaded rim.

Yes - the connectors can be used time and time again. The fact that they only need finger tightening means there is no damage to the connector and no hinges or clamps to work looseAs jscorse pointed out above I'm not using genuine 3M 952 T-taps, I'm using the equivalent Ticon brand connector. While looking to see where to get a small quantity of 3M t-taps I came across the NCE layout wiring kit instructions and realized I had crimped the t-tap incorrectly. I had put the wire over the slot in the blade, and closed the plastic onto it, the correct way is to put the wire in the recess in the plastic and close the blade onto it. It does appear to make a difference.

I used solid bus wire on my previous layouts. It worked well, but routing it was a bit of a wrestling match. That's why I'm seriously thinking about using stranded bus wire on my next layout. Based on these tests it looks to me like if I want to use stranded wire, I'll have a better feeling about the connections if I used the Posi-tap connectors. And if I want to use Scotchloks, I'll need to use a solid wire bus to feel good about it.And a second round of tests with a redo of the t-tap and more solid wire starting here: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/connector-comparison-scotchlok-ttap-and-positap-12305916?pid=1332182021 Watch our video to see how to install the Posi-Taps as well as the other awesome Posi-Products like the fuse holders for glass tube fuses and blade fuses as well. We have been using these on our bikes for thousands of miles and only have great things to say about them. The Posi-tap connector is a little more complicated. It's got three pieces. The main piece has a metal stud through it that's sharp and pointy at the bus end, and cone shaped at the tap end. The other two pieces screw into the two ends to hold the wires in place. Posi-Tap connectors allow the connection of an additional 4 wires to an existing live wire, without the need to cut, splice or damage the integrity of the existing wire. The Posi-Tap connector is a fully insulated nylon casing that requires no crimping and only needs hand tightening. Even better - it is completely reusable.